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Sep 7, 1991

Hiking Mount Whitney

Top Spot in the 48 States

Manfred P.

Keywords: USA, Mt. Whitney, Sierras, California, tourist, travel trip report, travel log, travelogue.

The Preliminary Plan

This was the plan. Boy, did I plan for a long time. The National Park Service forced us to plan ahead for nearly half a year, due to quotas and similar limitations on camp grounds.

Contact

Mount Whitney Ranger Station in Lone Pine, 8-4:30 daily
Wilderness Permit
US Forest Service, PO Box 8, Lone Pine, CA 93545, (619) 876-5542

Planned Date

Tentative weekend: Fri 9/6/91 - Sun 9/8/91. If you cannot make it this weekend, please talk to me.

Distance

The trail from the parking lot at Whitney Portal (8,367 ft) to the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,494 ft) is 10.75 miles (one way). Altitude difference is 6,127 feet. The 21.5 miles will be split into 2 days.

Planned Time Schedule

Day 1: drive from Irvine to Whitney Portal (5 hours); spend nite at Whitney Portal Campground
Day 2: hike from Whitney Portal to 2nd camp ground called 'Outpost Camp' which is located just before the ascent at 12000 feet.
Day 3: hike to top and all the way back to Whitney Portal; drive home at nite (ETA: midnite -- 1am)

Expected Weather

Hot in lower altitude, cold in higher altitude. Expect possible rain showers. Snow fall cannot be ruled out completely. Trails might be icy.

Planned Equipment

food and fluids for 3 days
cooking utensils (pot, stove, etc.) (every other person)
waterproof tent (especially the bottom, since you might have to put it up in snow) (every other person)
sleeping bag, pad
rainproof clothing and backpack
and lots more

And remember, you have to carry these items for 2 days.

The Actual Trip

Excitement was high even months before we did the trip. Not all my expections, however, were accurate. There are two main routes to the top of Mt. Whitney. Snow is unavoidable on both routes. One of the routes cannot be done without crampons, iceax and serious equipment. The other route doesn't require any of that during the summer months. Sunglasses and suncream are of course essential. Supposedly an iceax can't hurt even on the easier second route. In mid-summer, I feel it is definitely not needed.

Finally the trip was here; after all that planning. But the planning didn't do much good. Things happened differently anyway. We had fewer people, less time, and less equipment. 'Less equipment' is actually an understatement. I did it in sneakers without iceax, rope and crampons. Just me, my legs, sneakers and the appropriate clothing. The only thing that went according to plan: We had a lot of fun.

Don and I got the last camp site (there are only 10) and had only 1 day instead of 2 or 3 to make it to the top and back because we couldn't get a wilderness permit which is required to stay for more than 24 hours. As preparation, I worked out on a StairMaster and I was able to climb 10,000 feet in less than 1 hour. So I was sure my physical fitness was sufficient but I wasn't sure if my knee would hold up. Two people died a week before we climbed it. One died from hyperthermia (in other words he froze to death) and the second person fell 200 ft from a cliff. Just 4 days before our arrival it snowed and we could see that all the peaks, actually the upper third of all mountains were covered w/ snow. I was a little bit scared, at least very cautious not to waste to much time to make it back in time before any possible bad weather and not to make any wrong step. The icy spots were dangerous but there weren't too many. The snowy patches were not bad. We had luck with the weather. Sunshine all day, I had to cover all skinn to avoid sunburns.

Anyway, we rushed to the top in 5.5 hours (6,127 ft altitude differnce). On the top I was so exhausted I had to take a 15 min break to find enough energy to be able to chew down my lunch. It was also pretty cold and I was glad that I brought 3 sweaters (I had a full packed backpack full of clothing and food for 2 days). Most of the stuff in my backpack I could have left at home. The way back was harder, it also took us 5.5 hours. The view from the top was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Grand View, especially towards the west into the Sierra, the look towards the White Mountains and Death Valley was good too but nothing compared to the Sierra. The price for all this: Headache for 2 days due to altitude, and stomachache that drove me crazy.

Thinking back now 6 years later I still remember the stomache cramps and pain I was under when I was half down the mountain. The headache wasn't much better than the stomach pain. The drums were playing heavy pongo in my head. It was the worst headache I had my whole life. Nonetheless, I am ready to do it again, anytime.

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Travel with Manfred