Travel with Manfred

Travelogues from around the world

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Copyright © 1995 by Manfred P.. All rights reserved.

Nov. 11, 1995

Four Countries in a Weekend

Europe

by

Manfred P.

Keywords: Europe, Luxembourg, France, Belgium, Germany, tourist, travel trip report, travel log, travelogue.

You didn't really think one could do four countries in a single weekend. But its a catchy title and we did make it into four countries. After a rainy and cold week in Luxembourg City it turned out to be a nice weekend after all. I started the morning with a hearty breakfast from the dining room of the Alfa Hotel which had once seen better times but still reminded of past grandeur. The Alfa is straight across the 'Gare Centrale', the main train station. While filling up on the good coffee one can watch the blinking neon signs and the people hurrying to and from the station. For those less interested in the outside world there was this full-wall mural depicting some royalty in the back of the dining room. The waiter of course only spoke French, or at least he pretended to. I got to use my 10 French words, like "yes, coffee please". With the stomach filled I was energized enough to challenge the cold wind. The car was parked at the only spot in town that I knew that was under no parking restrictions. Needless to say that that meant it was half across town. But this is Luxembourg, so "half across town" actually is only a 20 minute walk. While on the way to the car I also walked a short stretch of the Wenzelwalk which is still on my things-to-do list.

The real day started when I picked Alexandra up whom I had met two days earlier when we both spent most of the evening in front of the TV in order to avoid the freezing outside temperatures. With her language skills in French, German, and English we should be well armed for wherever the wind would blow us today. For starters it would blow us to Trier. That's Germany for those who don't have a map handy.

We opted for the long but scenic route. On small country roads we worked our way to the border which is formed by the river Mosel to me only known in the context of wine. But there is more than vineyards to be seen here. There is valley style scenery. Image yourself cruising along side a slowly moving river on a slightly twisty country road. Now add the colors of fall. The trees with most of the leaves gone littering the road and the remaining ones all in brown. Now and then vineyards, equally brown would follow you as you glide by. Occasionally fishermen would stand at the river. Now that you imagined all that, I can add that it was exactly like that.

But even the long way brings one eventually to the destination, Trier in our case. In comparison to anything in Luxembourg it is a big city, several 100,000 inhabitants or so. After strolling around downtown for a while, we eventually reached the main square. Wow, what a surprise. A very positive one. The town square as a whole presented itself as a piece out of history. Every building was old and well restored. The completeness of the century old look made the impression it created within me so strong. But the pleasure was only limited to the buildings or visually. It went beyond that. The square was crowded with people which gave it a very lively atmosphere. Stands selling everything from flowers to roasted chestnuts attracted the crowds. A band playing German folk music was the dot on the 'i'. In short, the square was a visual and acoustic feast. Some of the houses had signs explaining their history. Germany's oldest drug store "The Golden Lion" founded more than 750 years ago is also located here. We stopped by the church just a couple of yards away. I was glad to see a simple pre-Gothic design. Most of the walls and the roof were without decoration. The back was Baroque and overloaded with ornaments. The organ was in an unusual location. On the side, appearing to hang of the ceiling. But the best part was the court yard whose appearance reminded us both of Canterbury. It looped around a small and well kept graveyard. Alexandra shared some of her past graveyard experiences based on the memories a-woken by this sight. I listened to her story of studying in a London graveyard that was frequented by rollerbladers and patrolled by cops on horses. Here it was a little more "civilized". People just whispering and silently looking around. Our exploration through Trier continued. They got everything here, ruins of Roman spas, Karl Marx birthplace, and modern shopping malls that are in the beginning phase of Christmas fever. I sadly have to admit I was surprised to find Marx's birth place here. I had expected to find it in Russia. But with that name I should have guessed. So, much for my general education. At least, I'll know from now on.

Having spent the last hours in the city we returned back to nature. Well not quite to nature but to our country-side tour. We continued further north along the Mosel until we reached some small Luxembourg village that was joined with a German village via a pedestrian bridge. Swans floated on the more or less standing river. While strolling around we seemed to become the attraction of the village. Turning heads gave it away. It is peaceful and life moves at a comfortable slow pace. Not to many strangers make it here. Along the river was also a church with a graveyard. After Alexandra's stories from this morning we had the idea of putting together a graveyard tour. Better than the standard tour of castles. We could do good business, especially around Halloween.

After having stretched our legs we followed the Mosel on four wheels again until we hit Echternach. The sun that we were so fortunate in having was slowly setting while we were sitting at a street cafe next to the "Hotel de Ville" which I translated to "Hotel of the Village" which is a bad mistake. Even those with only rudimentary French knowledge would think this is a poor joke. That's one of the reasons why I had Alexandra along. She educated me that it really simply translates to "city hall". But I bet I was not the first one to make this mistake. The service at the cafe was French that means it was slow. So slow in fact that we moved on. The village was quite typical. Cobblestone streets, a nice pedestrian zone with tea houses, bars, and small stores. From there we continued further along the Mosel until hitting the entrance to the Mullerthal (Mill Valley) at Grundhof. The valley was as gorgeous as last time. It still is one of my top 3 spots in Luxembourg.

Having toured the east on Saturday it was obvious to go west today. First milestone was Arlon. We took the scenic route again through woods, meadows with sheep and white cows, and small villages. In Septefontes we not only found the to-be-expected seven fountains but also a castle. Rolling hills surrounded us until we made it to Arlon, Belgium. It feels very French. Just like in many other towns we found WWI and WWII memorials, a Place d'Armes, a Hotel de Ville right on the town square, and a pedestrian zone. The only difference here was that there was a tank displayed at the square. From the street signs we concluded that there was a Belvedere somewhere but we didn't even bother looking for it. Arlon was lacking charm. Especially if you were in Trier the day before. Arlon just didn't seem special. The vicinity was even less special to say the least. The leg from Arlon to Longwy was industrial and lined with car dealers, outlet stores, and megashops. Longwy, France, is a town on a valley and is split into 'uptown' and 'downtown', literally. 'Uptown' is is the part high up on the valley rim built around an old fortification dating back to Luis XIV (if I remember that correctly). He built an Iron Belt around France, more than 100 fortifications. This is one of them and to us also the only attraction in Longwy. 'Downtown' is on the valley floor encompassing the train station. Southbound from here the countryside turned flat. The colors were still brown with an occasional green field. I have recollection were we were. We zigzagged around and then slowly work our way on country roads to Esch-sur-Alzette in the south of Luxembourg. Its main shopping street is lined with purple modern street lights that are obviously pieces of art. We both thought that they were subject to lots of controversy when they were put up. Small crowds were out, primarily window shopping like us. Remember, it's Sunday. That means stores are closed in Europe. After feasting our eyes on goods behind store front windows we feasted them again on scenery. We finished the day by driving the southernmost portion of road along the Mosel in Luxembourg that we had skipped the day before. Just before it got dark we arrived in Remich and parked the car at the waterfront. It was crowded. Everyone wanted to enjoy what could be the last warm weekend before the winter hits. Going for a stroll along the river promenade seems to perfect ending for Sunday for most people. For me too. A beer in a local restaurant kept us from dying of dehydration.

What a weekend. Four countries touched and a couple of French words learned. Not bad. Traveling with a companion certainly also beats traveling by oneself. Learning a country and a person at the same time. Life couldn't be better.