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Copyright © 1996 by Manfred P.. All rights reserved.

May 25, 1996

A Sweden Getaway

A Weekend with Friends in Gothenburg and Vicinity

by

Manfred P.

I never thought about going to Sweden. Not a country that would make it on my top 10 vacation destinations. I was on the phone chatting with two friends, Nilla and Sylvia, in Sweden when Nilla suggested I should come to visit for a weekend. That thought would have never occurred to me, but strangely it sounded good and I was convinced pretty much on the spot. Surprises do spice up everyday life. So why not Sweden for a weekend getaway? It doesn't have to be Monte Carlo all the time. Just kidding.

Half a week later I was sitting in the plane heading for Gothenburg, or Göteborg as the Swedes call it. I arrived a little bit after 11 p.m. It was wet outside, like it just stopped raining. I was hopping over a few puddles to get on the bus to the gate. After passing customs I got a warm welcome from my friends. Saturday morning we drove around in the second largest city of Sweden. With 800,000 people Gothenburg is still of manageable size. Sylvia zipped by all the major sites. Just to rattle a few down:

While wandering around in Haga a relaxed part of the city I learned even about Sweden's customs. First of all I noticed the fresh air. Even in the city the air was clean. I inhaled deeply. The streets are clean, hardly any litter. But N&S were quick to add that it was much cleaner just a few years ago. The most enjoyable part and also the most amusing was the Swedish version of bachelor parties. Brides and grooms to be make fools of themselves in public. We met a group of women having the bachelor blindfolded and dressed in weird cloths. Another group was dressed in Pipi Longstocking costumes and danced in a park. Yet another group sold recyclable bottles. We found signs posted on a fence reading "Throw an egg on someone for small change". We were to late unfortunately. We didn't find the people that posted that sign. N&S told me about the group that sold Gummibears soaked in wine that gave them a slimy worm-like consistency and feel. Not only was I surprised by the custom which I think is nice as we shouldn't take ourselves too serious; but I was surprised in meeting this many bachelor party groups in just a couple of hours.

After touring the lively heart of the city and sipping coffee on Kungsportsavenyn or, as the residents say, the Avenue I was pooped. Still suffering from the effects of a virus infection I had to take a nap. It was bright outside when I got up. So I completely misjudged the time. I assumed it to be maybe 3 p.m. but it was 8 p.m. Being so far north has its advantages, especially in summer. The sunset time is shortly before 11 p.m. For the evening entertainment N&S took me to Liseberg, an amusement park with roller coaster rides and more. The Tyrolian House was packed. Not a single seat left. The three guys in the Lederhosen played polka on the harmonium while the Swedes in a half-drunk state rhythmically leaned left and right to perform the indoor wave that we call "schunkeln" in Austria. While I didn't have any interest in spending time there I had to check it out to see how the Swedes like it: They not only like it, they love it. Must be the 'öl', the Swedish beer.

To our disappointment the Spaceport Gothenburg, an elevator ride to the top of a tower overlooking the city, was out of order. As alternative we took the ferris wheel. Not quite as high but at least as charming. Thereafter we tried a few steps on the dance floor where a life band played. No roller coaster rides for sick people like me. While the evening just started for many people at sunset we headed home so I could get my needed rest.

Another interesting part of the Swedish culture is the fact that many (maybe even most) people have two small places rather than one big. The average Joe might have a small room or apartment in the city and a small house in the country side. Today N&S would show me the rural Sweden. We headed westward. Just outside the city we stopped at a fort. It might have been called Elfsborg but I am not too sure. It dated back to the time when Sweden fought with Norway in the 16th century. The walls were yards thick. There I also learned about the coldness of the Swedes. No "Hi" or "Hello" when you pass people. My friends said it is the same on the busses. Living in a cold place seems to also make it hard for people to act with warmth. It isn't any different in other places where people seem to change when spring comes after a long winter and the sun returns.

Sylvia had everything timed down to the minute. We made it to the ferry seconds before it took off. Our destination was a little village on an island half hour north west of Gothenburg. Villages here are different than expected. They are stretched out with each house being surrounded by fields. There could be a mile between two neighbors. Swedes seem to like their privacy. The houses are great. Mostly brick buildings, but the inside is usually decorated with lots of wood. When we stepped into the home of Sylvia's friend Kenneth it was an experience. One of those pleasant Ahh moments. The warmth hit us. It is nice to get out of the cold. And it smelled so good. The wood fire place transforms the house into a home. It felt cosy. Small but comfortable.

Unlike the rest of the world Sweden celebrates Mothers' Day at the end of May. To top it off, it is also the mothers' responsibility to cook on Mothers' day. Ken's mom invited us for lunch. A delicious meal, similar to the German cuisine. For desert she made Juicy Swedish Apple Cake. It was yummy. I stole the recipe and used it a couple of days ago myself at a dinner with friends. The cake has lots of marzipan and is easy to make. I am addicted to it now, especially since I love almond paste. The lunch had to be finished with a nap to give me the energy for the evening walk. Just 20 minutes from the house is a small lake surrounded by a forest. Sylvia comes here sometimes for wind surfing. I am jealous of the people here. It is a nice area, the forest is the backyard to most homes. People seem to be living with nature. A great place to get away from stress, work, and crowds. Relaxing comes easy and natural. The boulders and rocks lying around add spice to the scenery. I like the forest that is littered with these moss-covered boulders. Strolling around in this area with friends is like medicine to the soul. You can forget your problems and let your mind hang loose.

Later in the evening we strolled in the other direction to the church. The reddish spot lights that brightened the church walls were unusual. It didn't quite fit into this environment I thought. This is a simple village. I didn't see the need to flood it with light at night. 95 percent of the Swedes are Lutherans. Whether or not they are religious is another question.

On my last day we slowly toured the small island we were on. We went from bay to bay, stopping and enjoying the scenery. Sail boats were gliding through the water and motor boats made their usual took-took sound. It was sunny and slightly warm. I was lucky. No rain during my stay despite the fact that it rained daily for the last two weeks. The fields were painted in a rich green. The sky was light blue with pieces of clouds moving by. The nicest spot was a little harbor, dead silent with no people around. On one side it had vertical cliffs reaching out of the water. On the top trees were growing, the same moss-covered boulders lying around, and a handful of houses were built just a few yards from the 40 feet high cliffs.

In the late afternoon we took a ferry to a tiny island, maybe a mile long, boasting to be vehicle-free. In the center was a hill that allowed a fortress to reign over the island. Luckily the fort was closed for renovation. I preferred the sitting on the bench and looking down to the harbor. I was simply too lazy to move.

All in all it was a lovely weekend. Especially the part of spending time with friends and being pampered by them. N&S certainly took good care of me.

Furthermore, I am impressed by the way how Swedes live in and with nature. By having a country home they seem to act more environmentally responsible: less litter, more recycling, less pollution, etc. There is something we all can learn. Maybe if we all had a little place in nature we would understand and value Mother Earth more.

    

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